They told him that the two would never be served together. “I wanted to delve deep into very traditional Eastern European food, but with my thumbprint all over it,” he explained.Ī Ukrainian couple came in recently and were amused to find him serving borscht with his potato and sauerkraut pierogi. And while there are options for non-pork eaters, other items, such as the smoked fish plate - one of Golovin’s favorites - include treyf pickled mussels alongside the smoked sturgeon, cured salmon, farmers cheese, German potato salad and seeded rye. One cautionary note: The menu is very pork-heavy. My cooking is more influenced by European food than by Jewish food specifically, but there’s a lot of food that could be considered Jewish food.”įor example, smoked fish and meats have special prominence on the menu, as do several kinds of house-made sausages and fermented foods. “I’m very much culturally Jewish but not as religious,” he said.
(He changed the spelling of her name for the restaurant so it would be easier to pronounce, he said.) He’s Russian Jewish on the other side and had dreamed about doing Eastern European food for years. After 15 years, I still love it as much as I did then.” “The whole arc is very interesting when you look at my path now. “I didn’t understand how hard that is or what it takes to do that,” he said. “I just really liked cooking.” As he progressed, he kept eyeing the next level, until around age 30 when he knew he wanted his own place some day. “I never made a conscious decision to be one,” he explained. Dear Inga’s New York steak with rye bread skordalia, carrots and sultanas. He speaks as if he’s still sometimes surprised that he’s a chef. “I loved being behind the scenes, the long, hard hours, the attention to detail and the dedication to food.” (La Folie just announced its closing after 32 years.) Golovin went to work at this temple to French cuisine and fell in love with the restaurant business.
“My family and I always thought I’d go to grad school, but I got sucked in.” “I’m very obsessive, and especially obsessive about food,” he said. A Cal graduate, he attended cooking school after college just for fun. Golovin, 39, grew up Conservative in Atherton.
She immigrated at first to New York, and then later California. Oma Inge fled from her native city of Mannheim, Germany, making quite a traumatic exit and just in time before the war. It’s what inspired his new San Francisco restaurant in the Mission District, Dear Inga, an homage both to his oma and to Eastern European food, with dishes based on the cuisines of Hungary, Poland and Russia. One of chef David Golovin’s most formative food memories is going to his grandmother’s house every Sunday and enjoying the brunch she cooked for the family, especially her German potato salad, smoked salmon and stuffed cabbage. Food coverage is supported by a generous donation from Susan and Moses Libitzky.
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